{"id":1309,"date":"2022-08-23T19:50:50","date_gmt":"2022-08-23T18:50:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/?p=1309"},"modified":"2022-10-21T08:56:02","modified_gmt":"2022-10-21T07:56:02","slug":"a-guide-to-cruising-around-greece-supplied-by-wendy-bob-from-nosca","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/?p=1309","title":{"rendered":"A Guide to Cruising Around GREECE Supplied by Wendy & Bob from NOSCA"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The following articles were originally published in NOSCA<\/strong>‘s regular newsletter and SOCA, <\/strong>(as a sister organisation), have been given permission to replicate it here with kind permission of Wendy & Bob<\/strong>..<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introdution to the log of a sailing flotilla in the Argolic Gulf from our Friends at NOSCA.<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

“Sailing with the flotilla the 9 O\u2019clock Monday morning meeting (briefing) takes on a different aspect from those Monday morning work meetings of yesteryear. For a start it takes place in a local taverna accompanied by delicious coffee, and everyone is introducing themselves, comparing notes and eagerly awaiting to learn to which part of paradise would we be sailing today?<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Wendy has described in her detailed log below, we had good sailing, good weather, interesting places in the Argolic Gulf with good Greek food and good company with the flotilla sailors.<\/em>
Over the two weeks we were set challenges including to swap roles to come into the quayside, resulting in a few somewhat nervous partners taking the helm to back in for the first time, <\/em>needless to say, all very successfully. One boat was obviously well prepared, as the regular crew were hijacked by Norma and Lorna who proved their skills!<\/em>

We thoroughly enjoyed our two-week sailing flotilla in the Argolic Gulf finishing back at our starting base at Astros. Time for a last swim from the nearby beach after boat cleaning and packing, before our final group meal with excellent conversa\u0002tion and company. We wish fair winds to our NOSCA<\/strong> Greek Flotilla in September.”<\/em>

Bob<\/strong> and Wendy<\/strong> went with \u2018Sailing Holidays<\/strong>\u2019 on their Argolic <\/em>flotilla in May\/June this year. They particularly wanted to ex\u0002plore this area because time had not permitted when they bought “Carrig Hannah<\/strong>”\u00a0 from Maramaris<\/strong> in Turkey to Messolonghi<\/strong> in the Gulf of Patras<\/strong> via the Corinth Canal<\/strong> in 2016<\/strong>.<\/span>
<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Log of Sailing in the Greek Argolic Gulf from our friends at NOSCA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\"\"Following a late-night arrival aboard Konitsa<\/strong>, a\u00a0 Beneteau 323<\/strong>, which was to be our home for the next two weeks, our bunks found us soon sound asleep. A morning walk around the village of As\u0002tros<\/strong> found the lighthouse, WW2 gun emplace\u0002ment and amphitheatre (we were later to discover that several villages have their own mod\u0002ern amphitheatre, used for communal events, starlight film shows etc. Our flotilla skipper used them occasionally as the location for morning briefings). Of course, the location of the bakery was the most important find. Greek bakeries are renowned not only for their bread, sadly subject to inflation, no longer 1 Euro, but now 1.20 or 1.30, but also for spinachi (spinach and feta pies), an amazing array of biscuits and pastries provid\u0002ing a real waistline challenge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"

Astros harbour<\/p><\/div>\n

The 9 o\u2019clock Monday morning meeting (briefing) takes on a different aspect from those Monday morning work meetings of yesteryear. For a start it takes place in a local taverna accompanied by delicious coffee and everyone is introducing themselves, comparing notes and eagerly awaiting to learn which part of paradise would we be sailing to today?<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"

Astros<\/p><\/div>\n

Key messages from our initial briefing with Flotilla Skipper, Millie and Engineer, George:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Hazards include local fishing boats towing nets or long lines, superfast hydrofoils and catamarans, the occasional dirty Greek coaster.

    <\/li>\n
  • Weather in the gulf is very localised, in par\u0002ticular the katabatic winds in late after\u0002noon, at just the time when we are berthing.

    <\/li>\n
  • Various Greek marine laws we should be aware of including keeping a daily crew temperature log, other covid related rules,\u00a0 no swapping of registered crews, lost dinghies have to be reported and could hold up the whole flotilla several days.

    <\/li>\n
  • Our boats \u2013 “If you don\u2019t know your knots, tie it lots”, “If you don\u2019t want to lose a foot,
    give it a foot (of space between your foot\u00a0 and the windlass!)”. Heads and holding
    tanks exist for one purpose in life \u2013 to get blocked.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"

    Tiros<\/p><\/div>\n

    Our first day, Monday, was to sail 12 NM south down the coast to Tiros<\/strong>. After provisioning and\u00a0boat sorting, we set off, getting the sails set in the bay. The predicted NW 3-4 turned out to be SW 4-5, so we quickly reefed. Once moored up stern-to at the quay at Tiros<\/strong>, we were treated to an icebreaking group meal at Spiros Taverna \u2013 the very best vegetarian food for a long time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    <\/strong> Leonidhian- Plaka<\/strong><\/p><\/div>\n

    Tuesday\u2019s wind again was stronger than predict\u0002ed, so we reefed again for the 13NM sail to Leoni\u0002dhian<\/strong>, sometimes known as Plaka<\/strong> (Greek for beach). Here we were somewhat challenged by the height of the harbour wall, so resorted to our dinghy rowing ashore to explore and eat at Mar\u0002guerite\u2019s, delicious sardines and she gave us apri\u0002cots from her tree to take back to the boat.

    <\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Ancient Zarax<\/p><\/div>\n

    A longer trip on Wednesday of 25 NM, unfortu\u0002nately the predicted 2-3 was optimistic and turned out to be a Beaufort 0, so a lot of noisy motoring to Leraka<\/strong>. Worth every mile of it. Leraka<\/strong> is a beautiful hamlet located in a fiord like inlet which provides a natural harbour. Here we moored bow-to the quay \u2013 great for swimming in the crystal-clear water, but keeping clear of the resident turtle with his powerful flippers. A de\u0002lightful location for an evening stroll along the side of the fiord \u00a0 and spotting the route up to the ruins of Ancient\u00a0<\/strong> Zarax<\/strong>, once a great fortified city.<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Ancient ruins & view of harbour entrance<\/p><\/div>\n

    The next morning saw Bob and I up early to clam\u0002ber up to the ruins in the cool of the early morn\u0002ing, the pathway somewhat overgrown, but marked by red painted dots on the rocks. Fragrant late spring flowers and herbs as well as bird song accompanied us. We were rewarded by the ex\u0002tensive views over the surrounding countryside and the entrance to the well protected natural harbour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    Monemvasia peninsular<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    Thursday was to be a relatively short sail and\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0
    al\u0002lowed for our first lunchtime bay stop, with the
    bligatory swims from the boat. Our destination was Monemvasia<\/strong>, at first sight a large chunk of rock broken off from the mainland, at closer in\u0002spection a causeway links it gether with its medieval fortress town to the mainland town of Yerifa<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Approaching Monemvasia rock<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    The harbour itself is on the mainland, cur\u0002rently rather a noisy, dusty place with much reno\u0002vation of one of the quays in progress.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Monemvasia fortress town<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    The walk across the causeway and up the hill to the town\u2019s single entrance (Moni Emvasis<\/strong>) proved challenging in the late afternoon low sun, but worth the effort once inside and past the street hawkers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Byron’s wine tasting<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    Wandering the narrow, cobbled streets, we were\u00a0 in a different world and even more so when we arrived at our evening\u2019s destination, Byrons<\/strong>, for a guided tasting of Peloponnese wines.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    ‘Norma’ at Kiparissi<\/p><\/div>\n

    Friday, we headed north again, 21NM to Kiparissi<\/strong>. This was a frustrating hot day with little and fickle wind, of attempts to sail, but reverting to engine for much of the way. Crews were\u00a0 challenged to swap roles to come into the quayside, resulting in a few somewhat nervous partners taking the helm to back in for the first time, needless to say all very successfully. One boat was obviously well prepared and the regular crew were hijacked by Norma and Lorna who proved their skills.
    Another ice breaker punch party that evening, al\u0002though not required as everyone seemed to be getting along very well. Another glorious setting for swimming and dolphin spotting.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Flotilla Raft at Dhokos Island<\/p><\/div>\n

    The next day we set off across the gulf to Porto Kheli<\/strong>. A deeply indented harbour with several bays and for us another stern-to mooring on the town quay. Porto Kheli<\/strong> struck us as rather pretentious, being geared up for large motor yachts. However, it was redeemed for us by perhaps the best food we have enjoyed anywhere at the restaurant \u2018Hip\u0002pocampus\u2019, surprisingly accompanied by local or\u0002ganic wine at a mere 9EU a bottle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    Glorious swimming<\/p><\/div>\n


    Sunday\u2019s forecast was for a strong wind warning that night, so we were invited to go out for a day sail, returning to our berth before 1600 because the Lead Crew wanted to watch the\u00a0 Monaco Grande Prix! We sailed to the north of the island of Skiathos<\/strong>, enjoyed lunch and a swim at anchor and sailed back into Porto<\/strong> \u00a0Kheli<\/strong> under reefed genoa.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    The Island’s resident invited herself to the beach party<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    The second week saw us explore the east side of the gulf, Ermioni<\/strong>, a favourite of ours from our pas\u0002sage from Marmaris<\/strong> to the Corinth Canal<\/strong> in 2016. Dhokos Island<\/strong>, where having braved a late after\u0002noon sudden increase in wind strength entering the bay, we enjoyed a beach party after the flotilla had rafted up.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    <\/strong> The Megolithic caves illuminated<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    Our next port of call was Khoiladhia<\/strong>, which was to prove our favourite anchorage of this trip. We anchored beneath Megolithic caves<\/strong>, where the oldest remains of human life in Greece had been discovered, and which were flood lit at night.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"

    Sunset-at-Khoiladhia<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    We planned to follow what looked like a track from a small beach to the caves in the morning but were de\u0002terred by the strength of the wind gusting into the bay.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    We then enjoyed an exhilarating sail to Vivari<\/strong>, an\u0002other anchorage, once an attractive isolated inlet, however now rapidly being developed.


    <\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Vivari entrance<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    This was another inlet used as a harbour by Ancient Greeks, Venetians, as well as Ottoman Turks.The fortifica\u0002tions at the entrance modified many times over history.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Venetian fortress at Navplion harbour entrance<\/p><\/div>\n

    Our trip culminat\u0002ed in Navplion<\/strong> on the Friday. This was arguably our best sail of the week, with a N F5-6 and very brisk sailing, beating from one side of the gulf to the oth\u0002er. The port of Navplion<\/strong> was a de\u0002lightful surprise \u2013 an Italianate, Vene\u0002tian port.
    Navplion<\/strong> offers several walks for the energetic in\u0002cluding a climb to the Palamidi Fortress<\/strong> set spec\u0002tacularly high on a rock outcrop, as well as strolls giving many shopping opportunities, for those who wanted a gentler experience.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n

    \"\"

    Navplion streets<\/p><\/div>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    We celebrated the Queen\u2019s Jubilee on the Quayside with after\u0002noon tea before heading into the town to choose from the many eating opportunities. After an interesting morning walk around the headland, another good final sail, this time with the increasing wind on the stern, so reefed genoa only and dragging an effective sea anchor, our din\u0002ghy half-filled with water and in need of resuscita\u0002tion, no complaints, we were still making 6 knots!<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    We thoroughly enjoyed our 12 NM sail back to our starting and finishing base at Astros<\/strong>. Time for a last swim from the nearby beach after boat clean.<\/p>\n

    <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    The following articles were originally published in NOSCA‘s regular newsletter and SOCA, (as a sister organisation), have been given permission to replicate it here with kind permission of Wendy & Bob.. Introdution to the log of a sailing flotilla in … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1339,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-1309","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sailing","category-uncategorised","tag-sailing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1309","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1309"}],"version-history":[{"count":48,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1309\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1403,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1309\/revisions\/1403"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1339"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1309"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1309"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.socasailing.org.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1309"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}