Shrimpers East Coast Rally 2023

Geff, the Vice Commodore presented a summary of the Shrimper’s East Coast Rally at the February 2024 meeting of SOCA. The meeting was well attended with a good attendance from our new County members from BOSG as well as some members watching on ZOOM.
Below is a summary of that talk.

Bradwell Marina Offices

The 2023 Shrimper East Coast Rally was held this year in mid July. It  involved sailing on the Rivers Blackwater and Colne, SOCA members John and Geff attended crewing Skylark.
The Shrimper fleet assembled at Bradwell Marina at the entrance to the River Blackwater on Friday the 21st of July. The fleet consisted of:-

Sapphire leaving Levington

 

 

The lead boat Sapphire a Shrimper 21 #88 with Paula and John crewing. They had sailed from Levington in the Orwell arriving in Bradwell after a long beat.

Skylark a Shrimper19 #410 crewed by John and Geff was already berthed at Bradwell having been trailed from Hertfordshire the previous weekend.

Skylark at Bradwell

John and Geff have regularly sailed together after meeting at SOCA.
Earlier posts on this website describing Skylark‘s previous adventures on Shrimper rallies. Scotland June 2022, East Coast Shrimper Rally 2022.
Skylark stayed at Bradwell for the rest of the 2023 sailing season.

Langoustine off Bradwell

 

Langoustine, a Shrimper 19 sail number #894, had a sailed from its home port of Brightlingsea to Bradwell on the Friday to moor at its pre-booked berth. Langoustine was sailed single-handed by Bill Williams.

 

 

Dolly at Home port of Tollesbury


Dolly #56
one of the very early, almost prototype Shrimpers had sailed single-handed by Paul Blythe from Tollesbury Marina .


 

 

Lucy on Blackwater

Lucy a 19 #1001  joined the fleet from the midlands she was crewed by Tim and Wendy who slipped Lucy into the marina using their two trailer system

 

 

 

 

 

 

Endeavour berthed at Bradwell

 

Endeavour #114 another 19 whose home port is Heybridge sailed to Bradwell arriving Friday. She was crewed by John and Martyn. John’s knowledge of the area and tidal conditions proved invaluable in planning the future days’ events.

 

 

All crews meet up for an evening meal and to discuss plans for the rally at the Green Man at Bradwell Waterside.
All participants raised a glass of thanks to Bob Whitehouse for starting the preparations for this event and wished him the best. It did seem strange not to have his company and good humour at this event.
On the discussion of the details of when and where to sail, all the plans revolved around the time of the tides. High Tide being late afternoon on all days, which for most locations meant we needed to be at the destination marina mooring about 2 hours either side of high tide.

Day 1 Saturday 22nd July Before the rally started properly the crews had the early morning free as the fleet had to leave close to 11:00am to sail with the rising tide arriving at Heybridge Basin near to high tide which was predicted at 16:30..

Some of the crews took the time to explore the local area, a trip to the shops, a walk via the RAF memorial which “is a representation of a crashed mosquito aircraft with its nose buried in the ground and its tail in the air, it was erected in memory of the 121 members of the allied air forces, mainly Canadian or Kiwis who in answer to the call of duty left Bradwell airfield to fly into the blue forever”.
Alternately some people combined a visit to the RAF memorial with a trip to Saint Peters Chapel.

St Peters Chapel Bradwell

Inside St Peters

St Peters Chapel is one of the oldest remaining Christian chapels in the country originally constructed as an Anglo-Celtic Church for the East Saxons in AD 654 by St Cedd, astride the ruins of the abandoned Roman fort of Othona.
Othona is one of 9 forts that were constructed in the 3rd century AD to deal with the threat posed by the Saxon raiders. It is likely that the Fort was built by a Roman Commander called Carausius who for a period revolted against Rome and declared himself Emperor of Britain.

MV Ross Revenge (Radio Caroline)

The Shrimper fleet left Bradwell Marina just after 11am sailing with the tide towards Heybridge Basin, our overnight mooring, to try to reach there no later than 1 hour before high tide.
The fleet passed the iconic MV Ross Revenge better known as Radio Caroline, which is moored just outside

.

The winds were F2/3 but accompanied by heavy rain so all crew members donned their wet weather gear.
Some of the fleet continued onto Maldon whilst some waited south of Northney Island awaiting the clearance to enter Heybridge Lock at high tide as the lock gates were only going to open once to allow boats in and out.
Langoustine did not berth with the rest of the fleet at Heybridge but returned to Brightlingsea to rejoin it later when they moved back there.

Once the green light was seen the fleet entered the basin and completed mooring at about 4:00pm then re-positioned in the actual lock for the overnight stay. Once tied up everyone took the opportunity to dry off their very wet kit.

The evening meal was taken at the Jolly Sailor, a very short walk from the lock, The Old Ship Inn which is directly next to the lock appeared to not serve food in the evening anymore.
Once fed and refreshed by a few beers those sleeping on their Shrimpers settled in for a good night’s sleep, although some crews, whose homes were close, decided on sleeping in their usual more comfortable beds.

Day 2 Sunday 24th July.

Heybridge Lock at Low Tide

The Shrimper crews awoke on Sunday for breakfast and then had to decide what to do for the morning as all boats were looked in until the lock gates opened on the next high tide.  A queue quickly formed outside the office as everyone took their turn to pay the dues for the overnight stay.

Osea Causeway at low tide

Seeing it was low tide some of the crews took the opportunity to walk along the sea wall to see the causeway to Osea Island in an exposed condition.
The view at low tide confirmed the kerbs bordering the road that Skylark’s keel had made contact with on an earlier sail over the causeway.

Osea Beach Huts

There are some interesting modern beach huts just below the sea wall east of Heybridge which can only be  reached at low tide!!

 

 

Comment Board on Beach Hut under refurbishment

These contrasted with the older ones many of which were in little need of a bit of TLC.
On one of them, which was started to get refurbished during the lockdown period, passers-by wrote comments on a hoarding attached to the building and the owner replied!
It’s now become an ongoing narrative; it is worth expanding the picture to read the comments.

 

John, Tim & Wendy at Heybridge Lock

With high tide being at 5:00pm there was time for lunch before the fleet set off for West Mersea. The five remaining Shrimpers exited Heybridge Lock just before 4:00pm and initially started out in convoy until the faster craft pulled ahead and the fleet divided into two those who went north of Osea Island and those that took the normal, safer, but longer channel south of the island

Endeavour on Blackwater

 

Having sailed to Osea Island, Endeavour bade farewell to the fleet and turned around to return to Heybridge as it could not remain for the rest of the rally.

There was a late change to the planned mooring location for the boats by West Mersea Yacht club to Thorn Fleet near the packing shed.
Paula had to inform the now dispersed fleet, this was achieved by radio for all except the Skylark crew who got the message by answer phone on their mobiles and arrived at West Mersea just as all the others were moving location to the newly allocated moorings

Approaching West Mersea moorings

Once moored to the allocated buoys the water taxi picked the crews up to ferry them for their pre-ordered dinners at the yacht club, where we were joined by Paul’s family.
The dinner was much appreciated as was the members great hospitality plus the reasonably priced beers which Paul insisted on buying.

Shrimper at Sunset West Mersea

 

The water taxi was then bordered to return to the boats and to enjoy a very picturesque sunset

 

 

Day 3 Monday 24th July The plan for the day was to sail from West Mersea to Brightlingsea but the restriction was that we could not arrive at Brightlingsea until after 13:00, low tide there was at 10:30ish.

Most crews set out at before 9 and headed back to the main channel of the Blackwater avoiding a dramatic recent wreck with its masts jutting out of the water.

Wreck in West Mersea Quarters 27-07-23

The wreck was seen a few weeks later by the crew of the Skylark after it had been salvaged and taken out of the water at Bradwell Marina. The wreck was a concrete ship which was, unfortunately, eventually broken up and placed in a skip.

Wreck at Bradwell Marina 13/09/23

For those that are interested there are some videos of the salvage that can be seen on Youtube, (search for “Salvage of shipwreck in West Mersea Quarters”).

Lucy passing an Oyster Smack

Once back in the Blackwater proper the four remaining Shrimpers headed for Pye Fleet arriving there at just after 11:00.
The boats moored for lunch whilst waiting for the tide to rise to be able to enter the Marina at Brightlingsea.
We were guided to our berths by the Harbour Master with all boats tied up by 3:30pm.


We were fortunate that we had been allocated berths in the Marina rather than having to moor against the pontoons. This made our movements, whilst not sailing, independent of the water taxi.

Sapphire (The Gin Palace) Brightlingsea

After a shower, and for some a quick top up on supplies, we were all invited around to Sapphire for an evening drink, being a Shrimper 21 it was the only yacht capable of hosting us all.
The guests were very impressed with the internal layout of Sapphire but were more impressed by the well-stocked bar and accompanying nibbles.

After the drinks, nibbles and interesting conversation, the group  proceeded to Winkies for a very good Fish and Chip supper.
Winkies is recognised as one of the best Fish and Chip restaurants in the area and everyone was happy, we had chosen it.

 

Day 4 Tuesday 25th July The plan for the day was to sail to Colchester with the rising tide and return with the ebbing tide to Brightlingsea to arrive before there was insufficient clearance to get over the sill at Brightlingsea Marina.
Sapphire left early and travelled out to Wallet where the sea looked almost like a mirror then onto Swin Spitway, encountering a seal eating lunch and enjoyed the view of a golden beach near Seawick on there voyage. They travelled back to Brightlingsea to join the rest of the fleet at just before 14:00 and the four remaining Shrimpers sailed in convoy up the Colne in a very light F2  wind.

Dolly, Lucy and Sapphire on the Colne taken from Skylark

Rose and Crown at Wivenhoe

The fleet continued onto Wivenhoe where we all paused temporarily to take on Paul’s parents, Malcolm and Jenny. as passengers.
Paul’s Dad, Malcolm, was transferred from Skylark to Dolly, which was still sailing, Paul was determined to get to Colchester under sail power only whereas the rest of the fleet eventually resorted to motors for the final stretches of the Colne.

Lightship & Bridge at Colchester

Skylark arrived near Colchester Lightship at about 4:15pm the other Shrimpers arrived later with Dolly being last at about 4:45pm having sailed all the way, with extensive tacking side to side across the river

 

 

Paul Blythe was the hero of the day who sailed all the way from Brightlingsea to Colchester having picked up his Dad on the way at Wivenhoe.

Having achieved the goal of reaching Colchester all shrimpers returned to Brightlingsea having a very easy slow sail in a F1/2 arriving back at about 6:30pm. Then having dinner at Yachtmans Arms near the Hard where we were joined by other Shrimper sailors and family.

Day 5 Wednesday 26th July

Sapphire leaving Brightlingsea in early morning

Paula and John in Sapphire left early in the morning, High Tide at Brightlingsea was just after 06:00. This allowed them to take advantage of the tidal streams towards the Orwell on their return to Levington.
Sapphire had a “fabulous” sail along the coast, racing a larger boat, (Sadler?), arriving at Levington before it, which pleased John.

 

The remaining three Shrimpers, Skylark, Lucy and Dolly had the morning free as it was planned to leave Brightlingsea at just after 2:30pm enroute to Tollesbury Marina.
John, Geff, Tim and Wendy decided to take the foot passenger ferry from Brightlingsea to Point Clear to investigate the other side of the river, where there were interesting places to visit.

The water over the sill at Brightlinsea was about 1.5metres when the Shrimpers left. The reason for leaving then was to take advantage of the rising tide so we could arrive at Tollesbury close to High Tide at 18:30.

Shrimpers berthed at Tollesbury Marina

Dolly moored at its home berth at Tollesbury, Paul had managed to arrange for Skylark and Lucy to berth close by. Once all boats settled Paul showed his other boat that is berthed at Tollesbury, his pride and joy Mutual friend, an Oyster Smack. Paul then left to return home leaving the others to stroll around the Tollesbury Saltings which was a very interesting walk for those who had never been there before.

Tollesbury Saltings used as a marina

Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust.
Based on ex Lightship at Tollesbury

The crews of the two remaining Shrimpers decided to eat at the Tollesbury Marina Restaurant, the alternative of walking to Tollesbury Village was considered too arduous,

Tollesbury Sailing Club

However John and Geff decided to have a little stroll after dinner to take up the offer from then Commodore of the Tollesbury Sailing Club of visiting them for a drink before retiring to bed.
The club is a very quaint old building and the beers were cheap!

Day 6 Thursday 27th July The crews of the remaining two Shrimpers, Lucy and Skylark, rose early to ensure they were ready to leave at High Tide, which was at just after 07:00, for Bradwell catching the ebbing tide down the creek.

Lucy leaving Tollesbury to return to Bradwell

De-masting Lucy at Bradwell



Once the Two Shrimpers arrived at Bradwell Skylark returned to its allocated berth in the Marina and John and Geff helped Tim and Wendy retrieve Lucy to its trailer and de-mast her.

 

Lucy:- Last Shrimper standing from 2023 East Coast Rally



John and Geff then made there way home leaving Tim and Wendy to finish off for their return home.

Summary  The 2023 East Coast Rally was thoroughly enjoyed by all participants, the weather apart for one day was perfect although the winds were very light, but usually in the wrong direction.
Paula, standing in for Bob who was unable to attend, took on the organisation very well with everyone being where they needed to be when they needed to be!
For some Shrimpers this was new territory, and all agreed it would be worth a return trip at some time in the future.
As a final comment below is a picture from Sapphire’s Chart Plotter showing their log. A total of just under 100Nm for their travels during the 2023 East Coast Shrimper’s Rally.

Log of 2023 East Coast Shrimpers Rally

 

Crossing The Biscay The Good, The Bad and the Lumpy.

A summer trip to Spain and back. 

Paul Bragg gave a talk on “Crossing the Biscay“a trip to Spain in July returning to France in August 2023. This was as usual a very interesting and enjoyable talk recalling Paul & Elaine’s trip to Northern Spain. The talk was given by Paul, (could not be in person at the RNA as he was recovering from a bout of Covid so presented via ZOOM. Some members watched at the RNA in Welwyn Garden City with lots more watching it at their home via ZOOM including members from our sister organisation BOSG

The Good, The Bad and the Lumpy.

Night Watch

After spending the last few years cruising the West coast of France, especially South Brittany, Paul and Elaine decided to be more adventurous and sail to Northern Spain.

The talk will be about what was good about the trip, what was bad and what it was like crossing Biscay in the summer of 2023. (it’s not always lumpy).

Guggenheim museum in Bilbao


They focused on exploring the Basque region of France and Spain seeing the highlights like the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao.The Basques are fiercely proud of their identity and their unique language as well as their food and drink. 


Mutriku Harbour

Paul and Elaine will show you why this region is such a great place to visit.

The return trip included visits to the Gironde, La Rochelle and a very crowded Ile de Yeu.

  

2023 Photo Competition

The topic for the December meeting was as usual the 2023 Photo competition.
The format of the meeting was slightly changed from previous years with the meeting being a combination of physical attendance at the RNA Welwyn Garden City and with some participants joining in via ZOOM.
It was a very well attended meeting with one of the highest in person attendance of the year, including guests from our sister organisation BOSG.
As part of the Christmas Meeting a raffle for the Commodore’s Charity was held that raised a £70 contribution to his 2023 fund..

The competition for best photo was, as usual, broken into six different Categories:-

1) Club People since the club was formed.
2) Seascapes
3) Artistic (with a nautical flavour)
4) Boats
5) Weather and Sunsets
6) Sailing Holiday

The meeting was hosted by Terry, all the photos were displayed both in the venue and on ZOOM for attendees to vote on with the results being announced after the last picture was shown.
Below is a summary of the photo completion for 2023, watch out for future calendars when some of these pictures will re-appear.

Club People Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.

The winner of this category was George Whitchurch with his picture taken whilst racing.

George Says: about the winning photo
A number of people asked me what dinghy I was in.
I was in one of six Blackwater S.C. owned identical R.S. Zest`s, which were used for the Cock of the River trophy at the end of the August 2023 Club Week of racing.
I had won the “Slow Handicap” cruiser series in a friends Hunter 19. But apart from the Fast cruiser class winner, I was up against the young dinghy class winners, a few of whom are world class! Although I came last in the final, I enjoyed the publicity and did not capsize!”

Seascapes Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.
The winner of this category was Dave Arnold with his picture taken whilst on holiday.

Artistic Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.

The winner of this category was Stewart Warren with his picture taken whilst sailing in Greece.

Boats Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.
The winner of this category was John Robinson taking part in the competition via ZOOM with his picture of PS Waverley taken in the Solent.

Weather and Sunsets Holidays Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.

The winner of this category was Paul Bragg with his picture taken whilst on holiday.

Sailing Holidays Category
The entries for this category are all in this collage.
The winner of this category was Lesley Stevens with her picture taken in Greece whilst on holiday. Terry picked up the prize on her behalf.

Sailing into the Electronic Age November 2023 Meeting

The November meeting talk was given by Jeremy Batch who is a regular presenter at our meetings. The meeting  at the RNA in Welwyn Garden City was well attended but also had a Zoom audience listening in as well. This format which was a trial for an external speaker was very successful and will be continued at future meetings especially during the winter months.

 He had previously presented 

Apr 2017.  The Story of Navigation
Sep 2018. Waves, Wheels & Sparks: Sailing into the Electrical Age
Oct 2019:  Allo, Allo: the Story of Communications
Nov 2020: Making Space for Sailing part 1 (on ZOOM)
Oct 2021: Making Space for Sailing part 2 (on ZOOM)
Nov 2022: Going Boldly: across, beneath and beyond the Ocean

The theme of the Talk in November was Sailing into the Electronic Age

Sailing into the Electronic Age 
A Synopsis of the meeting provided by Jeremy Batch is shown below.


“We have no use for these inventions” was the rebuff given to Christian Hülsmeyer by Telefunken in 1905 when he offered them his early versions of radar and the chart plotter. Decca would make the same mistake with the Beatles. In this sequel to “Sailing into the Electrical Age” (presented to SOCA in September 2018 ) we’ll follow the adventures and misadventures of the inventors, scientists and engineers who brought us not only radio and radar but all the other gadgets we never knew we wanted on our vessels and in our homes. We’ll start with a long-delayed visit to Cragside, William Armstrong’s home in Northumberland, to admire his (British!) light bulbs from Joseph Swan, powered hydroelectrically in 1881 from a convenient lake via a generator from Werner Siemens. We’ll look at the radio valve, the cathode ray tube (once in your TV and radar) and the cavity magnetron (still in your microwave and probably your radar) and move on down to the transistor, the integrated circuit, the microprocessor and the memory chip, now allowing you to drop the entire Admiralty chart collection into your plotter or into the bilges — provided you can still get the chips. Also: a return visit to London’s Lea Valley where the British electronics industry was nurtured, a wartime miniature radar device whose level of secrecy approached that surrounding the Flag Officers’ Lunch, and “the machines that made nothing” but made everything possible.

Commodore’s Autumn Statement

Andrew
All, 
 
It’s been another interesting sailing season, and as usual numbers at the summer monthly meetings have been low, reflecting everyone’s nautical activities. However with the shortening nights and the run into end of year it’s time to catch up on future events. 
 
 

10th-July-Honfleur-in-Dunkirk

 
 


In October your HONFLEUR crew will present a short slide show off their recent “expeditionary force” to the continent... all is well, the natives are friendly, and the required paperwork proved to be no hindrance. 



 
 
In November we are experimenting with a Zoom presentation by Jeremy Batch.Jeremy has recently retired from the Cruising Association after 23 years service.
Come along to the RNA and have a beer whilst listening to Jeremy, or join from home.
 
The traditional Photo Comp will be held in December – only digital entries, details soon. 
 
Soca is 40 next year and the RNLI will be 200. We plan a very very short AGM in March followed by a SOCA 40th party – with accompanying photo show….. dig out your old pics please. 
RNLI…? We’ll think of something. 
 
The Laying Up Supper will be held at the Station Arms Pub in Knebworth on either 4th or 11th November.
Details later, keep you all posted. 
 
See you Thursday

‘The Wooden World’ – the inner life of the 18th century navy. 

 

The talk at the meeting held at 7:30pm 11th May at the RNA club W G City was given by author Phillip K Allan

A talk in two parts for SOCA

Part 1 :- The Wooden World
An introduction to the 18th century navy – a world apart from society ashore, with its own customs, language, and culture. How sailors were distinctive and easy to spot – clothes, jewellery, language, uncut hair, different songs and dances, tattoos. The ships and those that sailed on them. How they were built, how they operated. Life aboard, diet and disease, press gangs and mutiny, animals, children, and women aboard.

Part 2 – The Wooden World in Action – The Battle of the Nile
In 1798 the biggest fleet since the Spanish Armada left Toulon carrying a huge army under the new French Republic’s crack general, Napoleon Bonaparte, and vanished into the wide Mediterranean. Where was it going, and what was its target? A British fleet under their own young hero, Horatio Nelson, was sent to track them down. In an epic hunt from Sardinia, to Sicily, to Malta and beyond, the fleets finally met in an epic battle fought at night. 

About Philip K Allan

Philip K Allan comes from Hertfordshire where he still lives with his wife and two daughters. He has an excellent knowledge of the 18th century navy. He studied it as part of his history degree at London University, which awoke a lifelong passion for the period. A longstanding member of the Society for Nautical Research, he is also a keen sailor and writes for the US Naval Institute’s magazine Naval History.

He is the author of the nine book Alexander Clay series of naval fiction set in the age of sail. The first book, The Captain’s Nephew, was published in January 2018, and immediately went into the Amazon top 100 bestseller list for Sea Adventures. He has recently turned his attention to the Second World War. Sea of Wolves is a novel set during the Battle of the Atlantic. A sequel, called The Wolves in Winter, was published last year.

 

Please click here for more details on his website

February Meeting In Search of Northern Lights

In Search of the Northern Lights

Dave Arnold chronicled a very successful cruise that he and Liz made (in comfort!!) to Northern Norway in January 2022. Dave shared photographs of the aurora event as it unfolded, he also outlined the science behind the spectacular light show. Both Liz and Dave are keen photographers so the presentation had some interesting shots at ports and along the Norwegian arctic coast in winter.

 

 

Dave highlighted they were very lucky to see the Northern Lights in all their splendour especially being immersed in them with the lights totally surrounding them. Sometimes they are not as bright and just appear as a greyish blur especially from lower latitudes.

Below is a short video showing a small selection of the slides that Dave presented.

January Meeting :- Wrecks of Scapa Flow


In January Tanya presented her summer ‘22 trip to Scapa Flow diving the historic WW1 site of the scuttled German High Seas Fleet.
This post contains a description of the contents of the  YouTube videos of pictures taken during the time there.

Orkney.  9th – 11th July 2022

Stevenage to Scrabster 11hr 20 min (632.6 mi) without stops.

Stop over at Inverness convoy to Scrabster.

Scrabster to Stromness on Northlink Ferry.

West coast of Hoy, The Old Man of Hoy is a 449-foot sea stack on Hoy, part of the Orkney archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. Formed from Old Red Sandstone, it is one of the tallest stacks in the United Kingdom. The Old Man is popular with climbers, and was first climbed in 1966.

Chart: Scapa Flow is the large expanse of water surrounded by Orkney. It is a natural harbour providing shelter from the worst of the weather. It has been used as an anchorage since Viking times, and through both world wars.

The M.V. Invincible Originally an ex-trawler built in Sweden in 1962, powered by a 400hp five cylinder Diesel engine. 25m, licensed to carry up 12 passengers and 3 crew.

Scapa Flow is one of Europe’s premier wreck diving centres, the historic WW1 site of the scuttled German High Seas Fleet, where you’ll find seven large warships and four destroyers.

Stromness is the second-most populous town in Orkney.

Point of Ness Campsite, we had a six man tent for two. In the past the Point of Ness was the main herring curing station for the hundreds of boats that visited Stromness.

Amazing views at 10pm

The German High Seas Fleet was scuttled by its sailors while held at the British Royal Navy base at Scapa Flow. The High Seas Fleet was interned there under the terms of the Armistice while negotiations took place over the fate of the ships. Fearing that either the UK would seize the ships or the German government at the time might reject the Treaty of Versailles and resume the war effort (in which case the ships could be used against Germany), Admiral Ludwig von Reuter decided to scuttle the fleet.

SMS Coln – Light Cruiser was one of only two ships of this class to be completed. The other is her sister ship SMS Dresden. The Cöln lies on her starboard side in 34-36m, with the top of the wreck at around 22m. She is in very good condition with lots of life and very little current, the shotline is usually tied in at the lifeboat davit at around 22 meters making for a very easy dive, and usually a first dive of the week. Cöln is the correct spelling as this can be clearly seen on the ship’s bell at the Lyness museum on Hoy. SMS Cöln saw little action except for mining and a bit of patrolling in the German Bight. On 21 November 1918 SMS Cöln arrived in the Firth of Forth and then continued north for internment in Scapa Flow.

Scapa Flow Museum shows Orkney’s military involvement in the First and Second World Wars and provides a safe home for a major collection of wartime artefacts, many of national and international importance.

One of the propellers from HMS Hampshire, which was lost after hitting a mine off Marwick Head, Birsay, 5th June 1916. 737 men lost their lives, including Lord Kitchener, Secretary of State for War making the wreck a war grave. The prop was illegally salvaged in 1983 and later returned to Orkney by the Admiralty.

The pumphouse was used to pump oil from the overground tanks to the oil tenders that fuelled the naval ships in Scapa Flow.

Original World War II boom anti-torpedo defence nets.

SMS Karlsruhe Light Cruiser kaalz · roo · uh. Laid down in May 1915 SMS Karlsruhe had three sister ships, Emden, Königsberg and Nürnberg. Commissioned into the High Seas Fleet in November 1916. She served in the second Scouting Group, patrolling the Heligoland Bight in the North Sea, protecting minesweepers against British light forces. The Karlsruhe lies on her starboard side with a list of about 45 degrees, she rests in a maximum depth of 27 meters and raises up to around 16 meters.

The Churchill Barriers are four causeways in Orkney with a total length of 1.4m. They link the Orkney Mainland in the north to the island of South Ronaldsay via Burray and the two smaller islands of Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm. The barriers were built between May 1940 and September 1944, primarily as naval defences to protect the anchorage at Scapa Flow, but since 12 May 1945, serve as road links between the islands.

Remains of SS Reginald, a blockship sunk in Weddell Bay.

The Italian Chapel is a highly ornate Catholic chapel on Lamb Holm. It was built during World War II by Italian prisoners of war, who were housed on the previously uninhabited island while they constructed the Churchill Barriers. The chapel was not completed until after the end of the war, and was restored in the 1960s and again in the 1990s. It is a popular tourist attraction.

The Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre is housed in converted farm buildings on the island of Burray, the Centre has an intriguing collection of fossils from Orkney and around the world, including some rare and beautifully preserved specimens. There are also local heritage displays, including fascinating exhibitions about Scapa Flow’s wartime history.

The Citadel Our dive buddy’s tent which easily accommodated 6 for evening social.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on 9th to 11th July please click here

Orkney.  12th July 2022

From Stromness into Scapa Flow, the sheltered natural harbour ringed by islands. Chosen as the main base for the Royal Navy fleet during the First World War it was ideally situated for guarding the surrounding waters including the North Sea.

SMS Konig battleship was commissioned in 1914 and led the Fleet at the Battle of Jutland. The König along with the cruiser Dresden were the last two ships to arrive at Scapa Flow for their internment. The König sits in 40 meters of water with the hull rising up to 24 meters. The König lies completely upside down and has been the most heavily salvaged of all the fleet wrecks which gives the opportunity to see the engineering behind the scenes. The two meter diameter hole is the barbette of D-turret. 12 inch thick armour plate is exposed.

SMS Dresden Light cruiser was sister ship to SMS Cöln. Launched on 25 April 1917. She was a replacement for the earlier SMS Dresden, which was scuttled at Robinson Crusoe Island off the coast of Chile after the Battle of the Falklands in 1915. Due to turbine failure SMS Dresden was unable to steam to Scapa in November alongside the rest of the High Seas Fleet. Instead the cruiser arrived in Scapa Flow on 6 December 1918, leaking badly. The Dresden lays on her port side at a depth ranging from 23 meters at the bow and down to 38 meters at the stern. The scuttling was carried out on 21 June 1919. Intervening British guard ships were able to beach some of the ships, but 52 of the 74 interned vessels sank. Many of the wrecks were salvaged over the next two decades and were towed away for scrapping.

Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of Mainland. Older than Stonehenge and the great pyramids, over 5000 years ago Skara Brae was a thriving village. Consisting of ten clustered houses, made of flagstones, in earthen dams that provided support for the walls; the houses included stone hearths, beds, and cupboards. First uncovered by a severe storm in 1850 which stripped the earth from a large irregular knoll known as “Skara Brae”. When the storm cleared, local villagers found the outline of a village consisting of several small houses without roofs.

Skaill House was originally built in 1620 and has been added to by successive generations over the centuries. In its 400 year evolution, all 12 Lairds have been related, contributing to the history and collections in the house. It was home of William Graham Watt in 1850 who began the first amateur excavation of the Skara Brae site,

Kitchener Memorial On the 5th June 1916, HMS Hampshire left the sheltered waters of Scapa Flow and entered the stormy seas off the west coast of Orkney. The armoured cruiser was bound for Russia on a diplomatic mission. On board was Lord Kitchener, Secretary of War, famously immortalised in the iconic recruitment posters created during the First World War which encouraged Britons to sign up to the army. As the warship set off from Scapa Flow, a force nine gale was blowing and the two escorting destroyers, HMS Unity and HMS Victor, were instructed to return to port as the weather deteriorated. The Hampshire continued on alone and, at about 8.45 pm on the 5th June, it struck one of many mines that had been laid off the coast of Marwick Head by the German submarine U-75 the week before. The ship sank in just 15 minutes. Sadly, there were only 12 survivors, with over 700 lives lost including Lord Kitchener. In 1926 the 48ft high Kitchener Memorial was unveiled after being built by public subscription. The stone tower stands tall over the waters where the tragedy happened at Marwick Head nature reserve. In 2016, the Orkney Heritage Society raised funds to build an arc-shaped commemorative wall at the site to better remember all the men who were killed.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 12th July please click here

Orkney.  13th July 2022

SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm Battleship Kronprinz Wilhelm was launched in February 1914. The Kronprinz took part in the Battle of Jutland, and was part of the vanguard fleet, she suffered no damage or loss of life. The Kronprinz lays upturned in 38 meters of water with her port side uppermost and rises to as little as 12 meters at its shallowest. Decending down to the port side of the wreck you reach the seabed at around 38 meters, keeping the wreck on your right arm, you are now moving towards the stern of the wreck. Starting to ascend around the stern, you will come to the rudders and the blasted area where the propellers used to be. This is a lovely scenic area and a great way to decompress in the shallows.

F2 was a World War II German light escort vessel, built in 1936, her design was an experiment at the time as she was fitted out with high-pressure boilers. She sank in a storm in 1946, not long after coming into British hands at the end of the war. The wreck was sold for scrap to Metrec Engineering in the 60s. The company used a wooden barge, YC21, in the salvage operation, but the barge sank in a storm on 15 November 1968. No salvage operations have been carried out on either wreck since. The F2 lays on her port side in 15 meters of water rising up to 8 meters. Although everything aft of the bridge section was blasted in the salvage operations, there are many interesting features in this area, rolls of cable, deck cleats, bollards and the stern post is still visible. There’s a line connecting the barge to the F2, this can be found near the stern on the port side. A short swim of about 20 meters and you are on the barge YC-21, the barge sits upright and the outside of the barge the starboard side is covered in marine life. Within the hold there’s a set of 20mm anti aircraft guns pointing up to the surface, there are also various other bits and pieces of pipe salvaged from the F2. On the starboard side there is an old generator and some old gas cylinders used for cutting.

The Orkney Brewery is housed in the former schoolhouse in Quoyloo one mile from Skara Brae in the heart of Neolithic Orkney. When Norman Sinclair took over in 2006, he made sure the school was preserved as much as possible while the brewery grew. From IPAs, through to Stouts and Scottish Ales to Dark Island reserve, the extraordinary Orcadian ale aged in whisky casks, 10%.

The Ring of Brodgar is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, a series of important domestic and ritual monuments built 5000 years ago in Orkney. The Ring of Brodgar comprises a stone circle, originally consisting of 60 stones – 36 survive today, at least 13 prehistoric burial mounds and a large rock-cut ditch surrounding the stone circle.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 13th July please click here

Orkney.  14th July 2022

SMS Brummer – Fast Minelaying Cruiser was more lightly armoured and less heavily armed than the light cruisers. She could carry 400 mines and was extremely manoverable. In October 1917 the Brummer was one of two ships used to intercept a British convoy en route from Bergen to Lerwick. She was chosen for this job due to her high speed, and the fact that she resembled a British cruiser. In preparation for the raid, the crew painted the ship dark grey to further camouflage her to look like a British vessel. SMS Brummer arrived in Scapa Flow for internment in November 1918.

A diver Lost a SMB, Surface Marker Buoy, and jumped off the dive lift to retrieve it. The reel was let go underwater for safety reasons when it became entangled.

SMS Karlsruhe Light Cruiser kaalz · roo · uh is one of the best dives in Scapa Flow, and considered a favourite that many wish to repeat time and time again, as did we. At a maximum depth of 27 meters rising to 16 meters. She is the shallowest and most broken up of all the German fleet wrecks, but she is also the prettiest with lots of fish and marine life. The Karlsruhe was the only one of her class that the Germans successfully scuttled as SMS Nürnberg and Emden were both beached by the British. The wreck was sold in 1962 and was partially broken up between 1963 and 1965.The bow section has two huge anchors that lie on the seabed, their chains run along the seabed and through the hawse pipes. The chains are wrapped around the two anchor capstans and the engines that drove the capstans are still visible.

A walk in the rain through Stromness

To the RNLI Boathouse 1867

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 14th July please click here

Orkney.  15th July 2022

Air fill station onboard compressor

SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm Battleship second dive on this battleship. Deep dark and lost video footage.

Tabarka Block Ship A great second dive, she lies upside down in 12 meters of very tidal water, and can only be dived during slack with negative entry. The Tabarka, seized at Falmouth in 1940 by the British Navy, this single screw steamer was sailed under her own power and sunk as a block ship in Kirk Sound. As the construction of the Churchill Barriers was coming along well it was decided to re-float her, and move her to her present position in Burra Sound. Divers are suited and booted and ready to dive, just as the water comes slack we move into position over the wreck and give the word to go. The shallowest part of the wreck rises up to as little as 6 meters. There are many holes along the sides where she was blasted during the scuttling and a large section near the bows has now fallen through. This is a lovely dive with crystal clear water with rays of light penetrating through the wreck. Wildlife includes wrasse and small shoaling fish, crabs and lobster, all different kinds of anemone carpet the wreck. 30 minute dive before tide starts to run.

Stromness Red Shed dive shop

Ness Battery Finest example of a WW2 coast Battery, viewing by appointment.

Links Battery WW2 ruin, a twin 6-pounder gun was installed here

Stones of Stenness Neolithic monument five miles northeast of Stromness, this may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles.

The winds of the week calmed down but the Midges came out.

The Next dive group went out on glassy water.

Driving tour of Mainland and across the Churchill Barriers, Church now a cafe and designer jewellery shop.

Whisky – A nice drop.

Open garden on North east coast of Mainland, a challenging spot for gardening.

Scapa bay, south of Kirkwall overlooking site of Royal Oak wreck

Royal Oak Memorial Garden

Built during the First World War and completed in 1916, the British battleship Royal Oak first saw combat at the Battle of Jutland. On 14 October 1939 the now outdated Royal Oak was anchored at Scapa Flow when she was torpedoed and sunk by the German submarine U-47. Coming just weeks after the outbreak of World War Two, it was one of Britain’s worst naval disasters. It was an even worse shock because it happened inside a famous and supposedly impregnable naval base, Scapa Flow. Of Royal Oak’s complement of 1,234 men and boys, 835 were killed that night or died later of their wounds.

Kirkwell Cathedral displays the Royal Oak Bell with a book of remembrance.

Night Ferry to Aberdeen Cabin with vip lounge.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 15th July please click here