January Meeting :- Wrecks of Scapa Flow


In January Tanya presented her summer ‘22 trip to Scapa Flow diving the historic WW1 site of the scuttled German High Seas Fleet.
This post contains a description of the contents of the  YouTube videos of pictures taken during the time there.

Orkney.  9th – 11th July 2022

Stevenage to Scrabster 11hr 20 min (632.6 mi) without stops.

Stop over at Inverness convoy to Scrabster.

Scrabster to Stromness on Northlink Ferry.

West coast of Hoy, The Old Man of Hoy is a 449-foot sea stack on Hoy, part of the Orkney archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. Formed from Old Red Sandstone, it is one of the tallest stacks in the United Kingdom. The Old Man is popular with climbers, and was first climbed in 1966.

Chart: Scapa Flow is the large expanse of water surrounded by Orkney. It is a natural harbour providing shelter from the worst of the weather. It has been used as an anchorage since Viking times, and through both world wars.

The M.V. Invincible Originally an ex-trawler built in Sweden in 1962, powered by a 400hp five cylinder Diesel engine. 25m, licensed to carry up 12 passengers and 3 crew.

Scapa Flow is one of Europe’s premier wreck diving centres, the historic WW1 site of the scuttled German High Seas Fleet, where you’ll find seven large warships and four destroyers.

Stromness is the second-most populous town in Orkney.

Point of Ness Campsite, we had a six man tent for two. In the past the Point of Ness was the main herring curing station for the hundreds of boats that visited Stromness.

Amazing views at 10pm

The German High Seas Fleet was scuttled by its sailors while held at the British Royal Navy base at Scapa Flow. The High Seas Fleet was interned there under the terms of the Armistice while negotiations took place over the fate of the ships. Fearing that either the UK would seize the ships or the German government at the time might reject the Treaty of Versailles and resume the war effort (in which case the ships could be used against Germany), Admiral Ludwig von Reuter decided to scuttle the fleet.

SMS Coln – Light Cruiser was one of only two ships of this class to be completed. The other is her sister ship SMS Dresden. The Cöln lies on her starboard side in 34-36m, with the top of the wreck at around 22m. She is in very good condition with lots of life and very little current, the shotline is usually tied in at the lifeboat davit at around 22 meters making for a very easy dive, and usually a first dive of the week. Cöln is the correct spelling as this can be clearly seen on the ship’s bell at the Lyness museum on Hoy. SMS Cöln saw little action except for mining and a bit of patrolling in the German Bight. On 21 November 1918 SMS Cöln arrived in the Firth of Forth and then continued north for internment in Scapa Flow.

Scapa Flow Museum shows Orkney’s military involvement in the First and Second World Wars and provides a safe home for a major collection of wartime artefacts, many of national and international importance.

One of the propellers from HMS Hampshire, which was lost after hitting a mine off Marwick Head, Birsay, 5th June 1916. 737 men lost their lives, including Lord Kitchener, Secretary of State for War making the wreck a war grave. The prop was illegally salvaged in 1983 and later returned to Orkney by the Admiralty.

The pumphouse was used to pump oil from the overground tanks to the oil tenders that fuelled the naval ships in Scapa Flow.

Original World War II boom anti-torpedo defence nets.

SMS Karlsruhe Light Cruiser kaalz · roo · uh. Laid down in May 1915 SMS Karlsruhe had three sister ships, Emden, Königsberg and Nürnberg. Commissioned into the High Seas Fleet in November 1916. She served in the second Scouting Group, patrolling the Heligoland Bight in the North Sea, protecting minesweepers against British light forces. The Karlsruhe lies on her starboard side with a list of about 45 degrees, she rests in a maximum depth of 27 meters and raises up to around 16 meters.

The Churchill Barriers are four causeways in Orkney with a total length of 1.4m. They link the Orkney Mainland in the north to the island of South Ronaldsay via Burray and the two smaller islands of Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm. The barriers were built between May 1940 and September 1944, primarily as naval defences to protect the anchorage at Scapa Flow, but since 12 May 1945, serve as road links between the islands.

Remains of SS Reginald, a blockship sunk in Weddell Bay.

The Italian Chapel is a highly ornate Catholic chapel on Lamb Holm. It was built during World War II by Italian prisoners of war, who were housed on the previously uninhabited island while they constructed the Churchill Barriers. The chapel was not completed until after the end of the war, and was restored in the 1960s and again in the 1990s. It is a popular tourist attraction.

The Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre is housed in converted farm buildings on the island of Burray, the Centre has an intriguing collection of fossils from Orkney and around the world, including some rare and beautifully preserved specimens. There are also local heritage displays, including fascinating exhibitions about Scapa Flow’s wartime history.

The Citadel Our dive buddy’s tent which easily accommodated 6 for evening social.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on 9th to 11th July please click here

Orkney.  12th July 2022

From Stromness into Scapa Flow, the sheltered natural harbour ringed by islands. Chosen as the main base for the Royal Navy fleet during the First World War it was ideally situated for guarding the surrounding waters including the North Sea.

SMS Konig battleship was commissioned in 1914 and led the Fleet at the Battle of Jutland. The König along with the cruiser Dresden were the last two ships to arrive at Scapa Flow for their internment. The König sits in 40 meters of water with the hull rising up to 24 meters. The König lies completely upside down and has been the most heavily salvaged of all the fleet wrecks which gives the opportunity to see the engineering behind the scenes. The two meter diameter hole is the barbette of D-turret. 12 inch thick armour plate is exposed.

SMS Dresden Light cruiser was sister ship to SMS Cöln. Launched on 25 April 1917. She was a replacement for the earlier SMS Dresden, which was scuttled at Robinson Crusoe Island off the coast of Chile after the Battle of the Falklands in 1915. Due to turbine failure SMS Dresden was unable to steam to Scapa in November alongside the rest of the High Seas Fleet. Instead the cruiser arrived in Scapa Flow on 6 December 1918, leaking badly. The Dresden lays on her port side at a depth ranging from 23 meters at the bow and down to 38 meters at the stern. The scuttling was carried out on 21 June 1919. Intervening British guard ships were able to beach some of the ships, but 52 of the 74 interned vessels sank. Many of the wrecks were salvaged over the next two decades and were towed away for scrapping.

Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of Mainland. Older than Stonehenge and the great pyramids, over 5000 years ago Skara Brae was a thriving village. Consisting of ten clustered houses, made of flagstones, in earthen dams that provided support for the walls; the houses included stone hearths, beds, and cupboards. First uncovered by a severe storm in 1850 which stripped the earth from a large irregular knoll known as “Skara Brae”. When the storm cleared, local villagers found the outline of a village consisting of several small houses without roofs.

Skaill House was originally built in 1620 and has been added to by successive generations over the centuries. In its 400 year evolution, all 12 Lairds have been related, contributing to the history and collections in the house. It was home of William Graham Watt in 1850 who began the first amateur excavation of the Skara Brae site,

Kitchener Memorial On the 5th June 1916, HMS Hampshire left the sheltered waters of Scapa Flow and entered the stormy seas off the west coast of Orkney. The armoured cruiser was bound for Russia on a diplomatic mission. On board was Lord Kitchener, Secretary of War, famously immortalised in the iconic recruitment posters created during the First World War which encouraged Britons to sign up to the army. As the warship set off from Scapa Flow, a force nine gale was blowing and the two escorting destroyers, HMS Unity and HMS Victor, were instructed to return to port as the weather deteriorated. The Hampshire continued on alone and, at about 8.45 pm on the 5th June, it struck one of many mines that had been laid off the coast of Marwick Head by the German submarine U-75 the week before. The ship sank in just 15 minutes. Sadly, there were only 12 survivors, with over 700 lives lost including Lord Kitchener. In 1926 the 48ft high Kitchener Memorial was unveiled after being built by public subscription. The stone tower stands tall over the waters where the tragedy happened at Marwick Head nature reserve. In 2016, the Orkney Heritage Society raised funds to build an arc-shaped commemorative wall at the site to better remember all the men who were killed.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 12th July please click here

Orkney.  13th July 2022

SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm Battleship Kronprinz Wilhelm was launched in February 1914. The Kronprinz took part in the Battle of Jutland, and was part of the vanguard fleet, she suffered no damage or loss of life. The Kronprinz lays upturned in 38 meters of water with her port side uppermost and rises to as little as 12 meters at its shallowest. Decending down to the port side of the wreck you reach the seabed at around 38 meters, keeping the wreck on your right arm, you are now moving towards the stern of the wreck. Starting to ascend around the stern, you will come to the rudders and the blasted area where the propellers used to be. This is a lovely scenic area and a great way to decompress in the shallows.

F2 was a World War II German light escort vessel, built in 1936, her design was an experiment at the time as she was fitted out with high-pressure boilers. She sank in a storm in 1946, not long after coming into British hands at the end of the war. The wreck was sold for scrap to Metrec Engineering in the 60s. The company used a wooden barge, YC21, in the salvage operation, but the barge sank in a storm on 15 November 1968. No salvage operations have been carried out on either wreck since. The F2 lays on her port side in 15 meters of water rising up to 8 meters. Although everything aft of the bridge section was blasted in the salvage operations, there are many interesting features in this area, rolls of cable, deck cleats, bollards and the stern post is still visible. There’s a line connecting the barge to the F2, this can be found near the stern on the port side. A short swim of about 20 meters and you are on the barge YC-21, the barge sits upright and the outside of the barge the starboard side is covered in marine life. Within the hold there’s a set of 20mm anti aircraft guns pointing up to the surface, there are also various other bits and pieces of pipe salvaged from the F2. On the starboard side there is an old generator and some old gas cylinders used for cutting.

The Orkney Brewery is housed in the former schoolhouse in Quoyloo one mile from Skara Brae in the heart of Neolithic Orkney. When Norman Sinclair took over in 2006, he made sure the school was preserved as much as possible while the brewery grew. From IPAs, through to Stouts and Scottish Ales to Dark Island reserve, the extraordinary Orcadian ale aged in whisky casks, 10%.

The Ring of Brodgar is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, a series of important domestic and ritual monuments built 5000 years ago in Orkney. The Ring of Brodgar comprises a stone circle, originally consisting of 60 stones – 36 survive today, at least 13 prehistoric burial mounds and a large rock-cut ditch surrounding the stone circle.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 13th July please click here

Orkney.  14th July 2022

SMS Brummer – Fast Minelaying Cruiser was more lightly armoured and less heavily armed than the light cruisers. She could carry 400 mines and was extremely manoverable. In October 1917 the Brummer was one of two ships used to intercept a British convoy en route from Bergen to Lerwick. She was chosen for this job due to her high speed, and the fact that she resembled a British cruiser. In preparation for the raid, the crew painted the ship dark grey to further camouflage her to look like a British vessel. SMS Brummer arrived in Scapa Flow for internment in November 1918.

A diver Lost a SMB, Surface Marker Buoy, and jumped off the dive lift to retrieve it. The reel was let go underwater for safety reasons when it became entangled.

SMS Karlsruhe Light Cruiser kaalz · roo · uh is one of the best dives in Scapa Flow, and considered a favourite that many wish to repeat time and time again, as did we. At a maximum depth of 27 meters rising to 16 meters. She is the shallowest and most broken up of all the German fleet wrecks, but she is also the prettiest with lots of fish and marine life. The Karlsruhe was the only one of her class that the Germans successfully scuttled as SMS Nürnberg and Emden were both beached by the British. The wreck was sold in 1962 and was partially broken up between 1963 and 1965.The bow section has two huge anchors that lie on the seabed, their chains run along the seabed and through the hawse pipes. The chains are wrapped around the two anchor capstans and the engines that drove the capstans are still visible.

A walk in the rain through Stromness

To the RNLI Boathouse 1867

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 14th July please click here

Orkney.  15th July 2022

Air fill station onboard compressor

SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm Battleship second dive on this battleship. Deep dark and lost video footage.

Tabarka Block Ship A great second dive, she lies upside down in 12 meters of very tidal water, and can only be dived during slack with negative entry. The Tabarka, seized at Falmouth in 1940 by the British Navy, this single screw steamer was sailed under her own power and sunk as a block ship in Kirk Sound. As the construction of the Churchill Barriers was coming along well it was decided to re-float her, and move her to her present position in Burra Sound. Divers are suited and booted and ready to dive, just as the water comes slack we move into position over the wreck and give the word to go. The shallowest part of the wreck rises up to as little as 6 meters. There are many holes along the sides where she was blasted during the scuttling and a large section near the bows has now fallen through. This is a lovely dive with crystal clear water with rays of light penetrating through the wreck. Wildlife includes wrasse and small shoaling fish, crabs and lobster, all different kinds of anemone carpet the wreck. 30 minute dive before tide starts to run.

Stromness Red Shed dive shop

Ness Battery Finest example of a WW2 coast Battery, viewing by appointment.

Links Battery WW2 ruin, a twin 6-pounder gun was installed here

Stones of Stenness Neolithic monument five miles northeast of Stromness, this may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles.

The winds of the week calmed down but the Midges came out.

The Next dive group went out on glassy water.

Driving tour of Mainland and across the Churchill Barriers, Church now a cafe and designer jewellery shop.

Whisky – A nice drop.

Open garden on North east coast of Mainland, a challenging spot for gardening.

Scapa bay, south of Kirkwall overlooking site of Royal Oak wreck

Royal Oak Memorial Garden

Built during the First World War and completed in 1916, the British battleship Royal Oak first saw combat at the Battle of Jutland. On 14 October 1939 the now outdated Royal Oak was anchored at Scapa Flow when she was torpedoed and sunk by the German submarine U-47. Coming just weeks after the outbreak of World War Two, it was one of Britain’s worst naval disasters. It was an even worse shock because it happened inside a famous and supposedly impregnable naval base, Scapa Flow. Of Royal Oak’s complement of 1,234 men and boys, 835 were killed that night or died later of their wounds.

Kirkwell Cathedral displays the Royal Oak Bell with a book of remembrance.

Night Ferry to Aberdeen Cabin with vip lounge.

For a YouTube video covering the activities on the 15th July please click here

Commodore’s 2022 Festive Message

Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas, and trust you have had a enjoyable sailing year which has certainly had its share of fine weather, lets hope we get the same next year.
The first club sailing event was the East Coast Cruise at the end of May which culminated in a dinner at Fox’s Marina Ipswich. Honfleur crewed by four SOCA members managed to make it followed by Stewart, Tanya, Paul Redd and Denise all of whom arrived by car.

25th – 28th May 2001 Cherbourg Rally

Paul had recently retired from work and had just bought a Cornish Crabber which he was looking forward to using in his retirement. This as we know was the last SOCA event Paul attended as he sadly passed away in September shortly after  being diagnosed with cancer.
He was SOCA Commodore for the year 1999-2000, I think that’s Paul at the helm of what I believe is a Colvic 28.

Tom. Sarah and Baby


Paul was a past neighbour of mine for many years at Becket Hall, Welwyn and joined the club soon after me. He had two young children Tom and Sarah who I was very pleased to meet again at Paul’s funeral.
Tom was showing off his latest 3 month old addition which he is holding in the picture above with Sarah standing alongside .


The reception was fittingly arranged at Pin Mill and was thoroughly enjoyed by all. Our heart felt condolences go out to Denise for this tragic curtailing of their retirement years together.

The last yachting event was the South coast cruise arranged by Martyn Reed at Hythe Marina. This was a very successful event with 5 yachts all helped along by Martyn and Sean’s hospitality and the particularly fine weather.

Jetstream at Hythe Marina Sept 2022

Just to remind everyone the next meeting is on the 12 January 2023.
Tanya will be giving a talk on her experiences diving on the scuttled German warships in the freezing cold waters of Scapa Flow. 

Commodore Alex Nicholas

November 2022 Meeting

The November meeting at the RNA W G City was given in person by Jeremy Batch from the Cruising Association.
The topic was :-
Going boldly: across, beneath and beyond the ocean by Jeremy Batch.

The meeting was very well attended and included some external guests from a local diving club.

Jeremy provided a very high tech and entertaining presentation that gave the answers to the following questions.

  • What sort of lifejackets did the ancient Egyptians wear,
  • and what did the Inuit carry on the back of their kayaks?
  • How did the Assyrians manage to swim in full armour
  • and when did we first learn to breathe underwater?
  • How have we (almost) overcome scurvy?
  • How did the shipworm help Marc Brunel drive a tunnel under the Thames?
  • How did the tomato worm and the Playtex company help 12 men to walk on the moon
  • and what will the next generation of space suits and diving suits look like?

 

 

Eight Bells sound for Past SOCA Commodore Paul Redd

It is with deep regret and sadness that I have to inform you all of the passing of one of our members, our friend Paul Redd. You will remember Paul as a warm, charming, fun and witty Commodore and a popular committee member for may years. He passed peacefully at home on Sunday 30th October with his wife Denise, children and sister by his side.

 
Paul has been a great friend and sailing buddy for many years as can be seen from the attached photos. South and East Coast Rallies to Cherbourg and Ostend, taking part in the 24hr RNLI charity race around Fairlands lake, competing in the Round the Island race a number of times on hired Sunsail boats and later on his own yacht Moondance.
 
Paul felt well in June but gradually began to loose weight. He thought this was due to a change of lifestyle from working to being retired. In September he was admitted to hospital and found to have stomach cancer, already stage 4.
 
Tanya and I saw him three weeks ago at his home in Suffolk, he was very unwell but his humour was still with him, joking about life and death. We are sad to lose our friend and sailing companion, Paul will be sorely missed by his family and friends.
 
We will all have so many great memories of Paul so please share these over the weeks ahead.
 
Our thoughts are with Paul’s wife Denise and family.
 
Stewart Warren
 

When a sailor has died they can be honoured with the sounding of eight bells;
meaning “end of the watch”.

_ _     _ _      _ _      _ _

 

South Coast Cruising in Company

SOCA held a Cruising in Company event based from Hythe Marina the home of Ariel Spirit traveling to Shepards Marina in Cowes. Martyn, Ariel Spirit’s skipper organised this event remotely from his new home in Hythe. Five craft from the SOCA fleet took part in this event all traveling from different locations to converge at Hythe. This was  the largest attendance for an event like this for a while, boats and members.
Below is the story of this event as seen from each of the attending vessels starting however with a summary from Peter our guest from BOSG who gives his views on the sailing event.

Report on South Coast sailing 10–12 September 2022 from Peter (BOSG Commodore). 

I had the pleasure of being offered a berth on the Stevenage Offshore Sailing Club sailing event on the Solent.  I picked up Alex, SOCA Commodore, and we arrived at Hythe Marina Village on Friday afternoon.  One of the SOCA Members lives on the Marina, we had a pleasant time there with drinks and a BBQ before ‘our’ boat, a Moody 33 complete with resident dog, arrived having sailed single handed plus dog from Chatham, (see log below). We retired for a comfortable night in the Marina.  The Marina has lock gates and the simplest exit is around high water, we departed 11:00 ish.  An easy motorsail / sail took us to anchor in Osborne Bay, IOW.  Another SOCA boat passed over provisions for a late lunch.  This is only the second time I have anchored here: like the first earlier this summer, again I found it a fairly uncomfortable anchorage.  We motored into Cowes and by the evening 5 ( yes, 5) SOCA boats were in the Shepards Wharf Marina. 
Our, by now large, party had reservations for eats at a pub in Cowes.  This all went well.  The following morning we set off to sail back to Marina Village. Other SOCA boats dispersed to various locations, ‘our’ Moody was spending a few days at the Marina.  Later that evening I took Alex back to Welwyn and returned home.
Good fun in good company.  SOCA Members offered a particularly warm welcome to me and they expressed the wish to work with BOSG wherever appropriate.  One suggestion was that we ask RYA for a special deal for small 20-30 Member clubs like BOSG & SOCA that find the RYA subscription a financial burden that could perhaps be covered by a joint deal.  Hope we can have a BOSG boat or 2 next year in the Rally.               

Ariel Spirit

Ariel Spirit is now berthed in Hythe Marina. The journey south to her new home in the Solent is covered in the post ” Ariel Spirit Sails South to new Home May 2022

Martyn, Sian and family hosted a very enjoyable, and filling, barbecue for the arrival of the SOCA fleet at their home berth in  Hythe Marina on the Saturday evening.


The next morning they departed with the rest of the fleet from Hythe to Cowes having tide with them but without a favourable wind. For this trip she was crewed by Martyn, Sian, Phillip, Brioney & John.
Ariel Spirit stopped off at Osborne Bay for lunch with other SOCA fleet vessels, before proceeding to Cowes.


After some onboard drinks in Shepards Marina Cowes the crew joined the rest of the SOCA attendees at the Anchor Inn for dinner.
Ariel Spirit returned to Hythe Marina on Monday.

 

 

Jetstream

Tanya, Terry & Stew aboard Jetstream

Jetstream is berthed at Port Solent on the South Coast. Skipper Terry,  and crew Tanya and Stewart travelled to Port Solent on Saturday morning.
Once Jetstream was prepared she set off just missing the 11:30 free flow period through the lock to join the rest of the fleet at Hythe.
Hythe marina was a new destination for all of the crew, Primarily a residential marina, it is quite pricey for visitors but a lovely place to overnight.
Martyn & Sian welcomed the crews to their new home and provided a splendid BBQ dinner for all  the SOCA crews. Breakfast was enjoyed in the Be-Be cafe in the town, and is highly recommended.


The boats in the fleet set sail on the Sunday and anchored in Osborne Bay where they were joined by John, single handed on Saluki.





Jetstream
then joined the four other  SOCA boats berthed in Cowes Shephards Marina and dined at the Anchor Inn for a jolly evening.

SOCA Crews at Anchor Inn

On Monday Jetstream headed for home port at Port Solent. As usual there was plenty of activity on the Solent. We watched the activities of Lamar unloading stone, dodging hovercrafts and ferries, abseiling on Spinnaker Tower, Warrior and HMS Prince of Wales with ensigns at half mast.
Jetstream’s crew’s thanks go to the organisers and all our SOCA friends for a thoroughly enjoyable weekend’s sailing.

Saluki

Saluki Skippered by John is a Hunter Pilot normally berthed at Southsea  he sailed her solo from Southsea Marina to Cowes on the Sunday afternoon stopping for lunch at Osborne bay along with the majority of the fleet.  She returned home from Cowes on Monday setting off at about 08:20  and motored for the first 5 miles, then sailed (light winds) until just after passing the gap in submarine fence off Portsmouth. The tide was about to turn at that point and Saluki entered Langstone Harbour just before noon.

“Morning Linda”


John listened to Southampton VTS in the Solent and several times heard the operator say “Morning Linda” which seemed unusual. He later slowed to stay out of the way of a car carrier and discovered she was named just that (see photo).

 

HMS Kent, note White Ensign at half mast

Just before crossing the main channel into Portsmouth, Saluki had to halt to let a Frigate pass ahead.
The accompanying SBS rib came in her direction to make sure it got no closer (see photo).  John couldn’t attend all of the event but sends his thanks to Martyn for organising an enjoyable get together.

Hypertonic


Sailing Vessel Hypertonic, a Moody 336, had been in the Solent for a while before the date of the South Coast Cruising in company event. She was relaunched at the end of June after receiving some copper coat remedial works at Suffolk Yacht Harbour Levington.
As a MDL Freedom Berthing member, and so not to incur any mooring fees, the boat was quickly moved across the River Orwell to Woolverstone to finish fitting out and a shakedown cruise up the River Stour and back was conducted.

Home Berth Chatham

Hypertonic was then sailed back back to MDL Chatham Maritime Marina.
Due to having no time constraints and as this was a single handed sailing trip Wolfie decided he would do this over 3 days stopping at anchorage’s on the River Colne and Stangate Creek on the Medway and taking full advantage of the springs flood tides to carry Wolfie and Bramble to  Chatham.

Hypertonic’s Trip to the Solent

First Mate Bramble


Day 1 Chatham to Ramsgate
The journey was via the Medway,  and the Copperas & Gore channels. Skipper Wolfie was accompanied by crew member Bramble (first mate). The wind was a South Westerly F4 allowing broad reach sailing.

 


Day2 Ramsgate to Dover
This leg was via the Ramsgate channel. The wind was a southerly F6 requiring motoring to achieve the destination.


Eastbourne Bound



Day 3 Dover to
Eastbourne 
Day three of this trip meant passing Dungeness whilst en route for Eastbourne Harbour. The wind for this day was a Force 5 Southerly veering Southwesterly which required close hauled sailing.

 

 


Day 4 Eastbourne to Northney
This part of the journey was via the Looe channel, passing the Seven Sisters and Beachy Head before entering Chichester Harbour to overnight at Northney Harbour at the north of the harbour just south of the A27 where Skylark had started its Solent cruise the day before..
Wind was a Force 2 in a Southerly direction.
Motor sailing was the order of the day due to fog.


Day 5 Northney to Hythe
This was Saturday the 10th of September and this leg allowed Hypertonic to join the rest of the SOCA fleet at Hythe. The wind was a South Easterly Force 5 allowing broad reach sailing

Day 6 Hythe to Cowes via Osborne Bay
Wolfie was joined by SOCA crew members Alex & Andrew plus BOSCA crew member Peter.  The wind was a F3 Southerly veering South Westerly. Sailing was close hauled with a combination of sailing and motor sailing

Day 7 Cowes to Hythe was the end of this voyage. The wind for this leg was F2/3 North Easterly allowing  close reach sailing occasionally  motor sailing

Skylark

Skylark a Shrimper 19 Mk1 is normally berthed at North Fambridge Marina on the River Crouch and was crewed by John & Geff. Following is John’s log of the trip.

This year for a change, SOCA organized a sailing event in the Solent as well as the East Coast. attended by 5 boats including Skylark. Because of Geff’s family commitments, we could not get Skylark launched before the planned start date, so we decided to take her down on the preceding weekend so that she could be launched for the following Friday. We drove down to Northney Marina. Leaving Hemel Hempstead about 8am on a clear sunny day. Rigged Skylark and left her to be launched sometime during the week. Returned to Hemel later in the day, Geff then set off home to W G City.
The following Friday Geff and I set off for Northney Marina arriving at lunchtime. We headed off at 12:45 and as usual had a headwind!! Motoring down the Emsworth Channel to Hayling Island Sailing Club, some 3 Nautical Miles, the headwind strengthening as we went. On reaching the West Pole 1Nm beyond the Heads we turned towards the gap in the submerged Horse Sand barrier. The Head wind had significantly increased and, because we had a strong tide in our favour. Wind against tide caused the seas to increase in size hitting us just off the port bow spray continually came over the side of the boat soaking me thoroughly and Geff did not enjoy making lunch below in the cabin in those conditions!
After 5Nm we came to the gap in the barrier and decided that it would be too far to go on to Hythe Marina and so we turned into Portsmouth Harbour and settled on berthing in Haslar Marina. After a few minutes wait we were sent into an empty berth surrounded by 30ft + boats. Having covered 14Nm a hard 3 and a hours later at 16:10. We did not get rained on during the day but my Lifejacket was well soaked. On putting it in the cabin I noticed it was showing a flashing light and on investigation I found that the safety light was flashing so I opened the zip and dried the light and turned it off. I was glad it didn’t decide to inflate!!

After shutting up Skylark we caught a ferry over to Portsmouth and following a long walk arrived at a pub “The Spice Island” and had a good meal.


Whilst waiting for the ferry at Gosport we caught a sight of the PS Waverley as she left Portsmouth Harbour. We wondered if she was following us from out trip going to the ISW in Scotland.



We both slept like logs! After a tiring day. The next morning after Breakfast we left Haslar Marina and set off for Hythe Marina at 11:00. Wind NW F3 Still on the nose. ‘Motoring yet again’. 1 hour later we had reached Stokes Bay on a calm sea. 13:06 saw us off Fawley Terminal and heading into Southampton Water.

Having covered another 5Nm in Cloudy sun but still a headwind, 13:38 found us beside Netley Great Dome and 14:30 saw us safely moored up in Hythe Marina berth 26C courtesy of a berth owner who lent us his as he wasn’t using it. We had traveled 14Nm

 


After a breakfast had by all at a local café in Hythe Village. Martyn informed us that the Marina lock gates were open and on free flow, so we quickly got ready and left our mooring at 11:20.

At last, a helpful breeze F3 ESE and 12:40 found us at the entrance to the Hamble river dodging all the weekend sailors returning home. Up until then we had been sailing jib only. When we tried to raise the mainsail, we found that the peak halyard had jammed around a shackle pin at the top of the mast so were unable to raise the main. After undoing the halyard, we were able to free it and at last get the mainsail up. By this time the tide was at full speed taking us towards the Needles.

Unbeknown to us our leader had sent a WhatsApp message that they were going to Osborne Bay, but not having any Wi-Fi we didn’t get this message and pressed on to Cowes, and Sheppard’s Marina.  14:15 found us in a berth awaiting the rest of the fleet. Come 17:00 they turned up having had a hard sail against the tide getting to Osborne Bay before anchoring for an afternoon tea stop.


Evening drinks on “Ariel Spirit” followed by a walk into Cowes for a group evening meal in a local pub.




07:30 the next morning saw us taking an early start. Only Stewart was about and helped us off on our voyage back to Northney Marina with a good wind and following tide. 08:00 found us beside Peel Buoy off Osborne Bay.



A cracking sail got us passing Horse Sand Fort at 0900 reaching West Pole outside Chichester Harbour and 11:00 found us moored up in Northney Marina having covered 14Nm in three and a half hours, waiting to be lifted out and onto our trailer.12:00 saw Skylark mast lowered and packed ready for the tow home. A quick lunch in the Marina café and we were on our way.
A really good time was had despite the adverse winds on the first 2 days. Thanks to Geff for his company on Skylark and the company of the other SOCA boats. Everyone said that they had had a really good time.

Thank also go to Martyn for his excellent organisation and hospitality.

 

 

A Guide to Cruising Around GREECE Supplied by Wendy & Bob from NOSCA

The following articles were originally published in NOSCA‘s regular newsletter and SOCA, (as a sister organisation), have been given permission to replicate it here with kind permission of Wendy & Bob..

Introdution to the log of a sailing flotilla in the Argolic Gulf from our Friends at NOSCA.

“Sailing with the flotilla the 9 O’clock Monday morning meeting (briefing) takes on a different aspect from those Monday morning work meetings of yesteryear. For a start it takes place in a local taverna accompanied by delicious coffee, and everyone is introducing themselves, comparing notes and eagerly awaiting to learn to which part of paradise would we be sailing today?

As Wendy has described in her detailed log below, we had good sailing, good weather, interesting places in the Argolic Gulf with good Greek food and good company with the flotilla sailors.
Over the two weeks we were set challenges including to swap roles to come into the quayside, resulting in a few somewhat nervous partners taking the helm to back in for the first time, needless to say, all very successfully. One boat was obviously well prepared, as the regular crew were hijacked by Norma and Lorna who proved their skills!

We thoroughly enjoyed our two-week sailing flotilla in the Argolic Gulf finishing back at our starting base at Astros. Time for a last swim from the nearby beach after boat cleaning and packing, before our final group meal with excellent conversation and company. We wish fair winds to our NOSCA Greek Flotilla in September.”

Bob and Wendy went with ‘Sailing Holidays’ on their Argolic flotilla in May/June this year. They particularly wanted to explore this area because time had not permitted when they bought “Carrig Hannah”  from Maramaris in Turkey to Messolonghi in the Gulf of Patras via the Corinth Canal in 2016.

Log of Sailing in the Greek Argolic Gulf from our friends at NOSCA

Following a late-night arrival aboard Konitsa, a  Beneteau 323, which was to be our home for the next two weeks, our bunks found us soon sound asleep. A morning walk around the village of Astros found the lighthouse, WW2 gun emplacement and amphitheatre (we were later to discover that several villages have their own modern amphitheatre, used for communal events, starlight film shows etc. Our flotilla skipper used them occasionally as the location for morning briefings). Of course, the location of the bakery was the most important find. Greek bakeries are renowned not only for their bread, sadly subject to inflation, no longer 1 Euro, but now 1.20 or 1.30, but also for spinachi (spinach and feta pies), an amazing array of biscuits and pastries providing a real waistline challenge.

Astros harbour

The 9 o’clock Monday morning meeting (briefing) takes on a different aspect from those Monday morning work meetings of yesteryear. For a start it takes place in a local taverna accompanied by delicious coffee and everyone is introducing themselves, comparing notes and eagerly awaiting to learn which part of paradise would we be sailing to today?

 

Astros

Key messages from our initial briefing with Flotilla Skipper, Millie and Engineer, George:

  • Hazards include local fishing boats towing nets or long lines, superfast hydrofoils and catamarans, the occasional dirty Greek coaster.

  • Weather in the gulf is very localised, in particular the katabatic winds in late afternoon, at just the time when we are berthing.

  • Various Greek marine laws we should be aware of including keeping a daily crew temperature log, other covid related rules,  no swapping of registered crews, lost dinghies have to be reported and could hold up the whole flotilla several days.

  • Our boats – “If you don’t know your knots, tie it lots”, “If you don’t want to lose a foot,
    give it a foot (of space between your foot  and the windlass!)”. Heads and holding
    tanks exist for one purpose in life – to get blocked.

Tiros

Our first day, Monday, was to sail 12 NM south down the coast to Tiros. After provisioning and boat sorting, we set off, getting the sails set in the bay. The predicted NW 3-4 turned out to be SW 4-5, so we quickly reefed. Once moored up stern-to at the quay at Tiros, we were treated to an icebreaking group meal at Spiros Taverna – the very best vegetarian food for a long time.

 

Leonidhian- Plaka

Tuesday’s wind again was stronger than predicted, so we reefed again for the 13NM sail to Leonidhian, sometimes known as Plaka (Greek for beach). Here we were somewhat challenged by the height of the harbour wall, so resorted to our dinghy rowing ashore to explore and eat at Marguerite’s, delicious sardines and she gave us apricots from her tree to take back to the boat.

Ancient Zarax

A longer trip on Wednesday of 25 NM, unfortunately the predicted 2-3 was optimistic and turned out to be a Beaufort 0, so a lot of noisy motoring to Leraka. Worth every mile of it. Leraka is a beautiful hamlet located in a fiord like inlet which provides a natural harbour. Here we moored bow-to the quay – great for swimming in the crystal-clear water, but keeping clear of the resident turtle with his powerful flippers. A delightful location for an evening stroll along the side of the fiord   and spotting the route up to the ruins of Ancient  Zarax, once a great fortified city.

Ancient ruins & view of harbour entrance

The next morning saw Bob and I up early to clamber up to the ruins in the cool of the early morning, the pathway somewhat overgrown, but marked by red painted dots on the rocks. Fragrant late spring flowers and herbs as well as bird song accompanied us. We were rewarded by the extensive views over the surrounding countryside and the entrance to the well protected natural harbour.

Monemvasia peninsular

 

Thursday was to be a relatively short sail and   
allowed for our first lunchtime bay stop, with the
bligatory swims from the boat. Our destination was Monemvasia, at first sight a large chunk of rock broken off from the mainland, at closer inspection a causeway links it gether with its medieval fortress town to the mainland town of Yerifa.

 

Approaching Monemvasia rock

 

 

The harbour itself is on the mainland, currently rather a noisy, dusty place with much renovation of one of the quays in progress.

 

Monemvasia fortress town

 

The walk across the causeway and up the hill to the town’s single entrance (Moni Emvasis) proved challenging in the late afternoon low sun, but worth the effort once inside and past the street hawkers.

 

 

 

 

Byron’s wine tasting

 

 

Wandering the narrow, cobbled streets, we were  in a different world and even more so when we arrived at our evening’s destination, Byrons, for a guided tasting of Peloponnese wines.

 

‘Norma’ at Kiparissi

Friday, we headed north again, 21NM to Kiparissi. This was a frustrating hot day with little and fickle wind, of attempts to sail, but reverting to engine for much of the way. Crews were  challenged to swap roles to come into the quayside, resulting in a few somewhat nervous partners taking the helm to back in for the first time, needless to say all very successfully. One boat was obviously well prepared and the regular crew were hijacked by Norma and Lorna who proved their skills.
Another ice breaker punch party that evening, although not required as everyone seemed to be getting along very well. Another glorious setting for swimming and dolphin spotting.

 

Flotilla Raft at Dhokos Island

The next day we set off across the gulf to Porto Kheli. A deeply indented harbour with several bays and for us another stern-to mooring on the town quay. Porto Kheli struck us as rather pretentious, being geared up for large motor yachts. However, it was redeemed for us by perhaps the best food we have enjoyed anywhere at the restaurant ‘Hippocampus’, surprisingly accompanied by local organic wine at a mere 9EU a bottle.

Glorious swimming


Sunday’s forecast was for a strong wind warning that night, so we were invited to go out for a day sail, returning to our berth before 1600 because the Lead Crew wanted to watch the  Monaco Grande Prix! We sailed to the north of the island of Skiathos, enjoyed lunch and a swim at anchor and sailed back into Porto  Kheli under reefed genoa.

 

The Island’s resident invited herself to the beach party

 

The second week saw us explore the east side of the gulf, Ermioni, a favourite of ours from our passage from Marmaris to the Corinth Canal in 2016. Dhokos Island, where having braved a late afternoon sudden increase in wind strength entering the bay, we enjoyed a beach party after the flotilla had rafted up.

 

 

The Megolithic caves illuminated

 

Our next port of call was Khoiladhia, which was to prove our favourite anchorage of this trip. We anchored beneath Megolithic caves, where the oldest remains of human life in Greece had been discovered, and which were flood lit at night.

 

 

Sunset-at-Khoiladhia

 

 

We planned to follow what looked like a track from a small beach to the caves in the morning but were deterred by the strength of the wind gusting into the bay.

 

 

 

 

We then enjoyed an exhilarating sail to Vivari, another anchorage, once an attractive isolated inlet, however now rapidly being developed.


 

 

Vivari entrance

 

This was another inlet used as a harbour by Ancient Greeks, Venetians, as well as Ottoman Turks.The fortifications at the entrance modified many times over history.

 

 

Venetian fortress at Navplion harbour entrance

Our trip culminated in Navplion on the Friday. This was arguably our best sail of the week, with a N F5-6 and very brisk sailing, beating from one side of the gulf to the other. The port of Navplion was a delightful surprise – an Italianate, Venetian port.
Navplion offers several walks for the energetic including a climb to the Palamidi Fortress set spectacularly high on a rock outcrop, as well as strolls giving many shopping opportunities, for those who wanted a gentler experience.

 

 

Navplion streets

 

We celebrated the Queen’s Jubilee on the Quayside with afternoon tea before heading into the town to choose from the many eating opportunities. After an interesting morning walk around the headland, another good final sail, this time with the increasing wind on the stern, so reefed genoa only and dragging an effective sea anchor, our dinghy half-filled with water and in need of resuscitation, no complaints, we were still making 6 knots!

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our 12 NM sail back to our starting and finishing base at Astros. Time for a last swim from the nearby beach after boat clean.

East Coast Shrimper Rally 2022

Bob (the organiser of the 2022 East Coast Shrimpers Rally) has provided the following log of their recent rally.

“Six Shrimpers, (Including SKYLARK from SOCA) set out on July 15th from various places with the vague ambition of trying to find the source of the river Medway (or at least getting as close as possible). These were;

  • Lady B (David & Pat)
  • Bumble Chugger (Robin & Gillie)
  • Thrift (Paul & Debbie)
  • Skylark (John & Judith)
  • Sapphire (Paula & John)
  • Boudicca (Bob)

Sapphire & Boudicca waiting for Havengore Bridge to open

Friday (15th July) There was a spring flood and gentle westerly to take us rapidly South. For the overnight stop, 4 Boats went into Burnham-On-Crouch and two into Bradwell. The next morning (Saturday) the Burnham boats explored the delightfully winding maze of creeks that connect the river Roach with the Thames at Havengore. By lunchtime we were waiting at the (lifting) Havengore bridge for the man to arrive for the first opening of the day (90 min before HW)

Route across Maplin Sands

 

 

 

and crept nervously out over the notorious Broomway and Maplin sands with almost no water beneath our keels.

 

 

 

A f4-5 easterly breeze had built up quite a chop going across the Thames but it was on our hindquarters so we flew across, surfing down the waves. An exhilarating sail but I really should have put a reef in!

The Masts of the Famous Thames Explosive Wreck
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-61370382
These two innocuous red and green buoys mark the final resting place of HMS Bulwark. A battleship that exploded on its mooring in 1914. 741 men died. 12 survived. Apparently someone stored some bags of cordite too close to the boiler room.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Bulwark_(1899)

We arrived at Queenborough, at the mouth of the Medway, at HW to re-unite with Bumble Chugger who had sailed around the outside of Foulness from Bradwell. We tied up on the pontoon but I then realised that this was a mud berth that was only accesible for 2 hrs each side of HW. Oh well, we would just have to get up at 05:00AM  to move to a swinging mooring. We all had a lovely evening together in Queenborough YC. The bar was open, no food but they very kindly provided plates and cutlery so that we could get a chinese takeway delivered to the club.

Medway, approaching Chatham, Rochester Castle in background

The next morning (Sunday) we sailed up the Medway to Chatham, against the tide, but with a fair breeze. The idea was to arrive at lunchtime so that we could spend the afternoon in the Historic Dockyard, only to find that they were hosting a gaming event and that most of the normal exhibitions were closed. Oh well – I went anyway, it was quite interesting. It was also starting to get very hot! Temperatures were around 35 deg C. The first pint of cold lager was total bliss – as were the others that followed. Bumble Chugger had already explored the Medway and so went off to explore the Swale

The South Eastern bridge at Rochester

On Monday, We had a lazy morning waiting for the start of the flood tide and went out of the Chatham Marina lock around 10.30AM. There was still very little water in the river which was definitely helpful going under Rochester Bridge (HW air-draft about 8m). We allowed the early flood to carry us up river, occasionally scraping our keels on unknown submerged  items. The scenery was almost entirely man-made but not without interest, including a paddle steamer and ex-russian navy submarine. Most of us gently grounded at times and had to wait 10 mins for the tide to lift us clear. My rudder blade lanyard broke – I had to lift the rudder off from inside the boat (at anchor), repair the lanyard and replace the rudder – all single handed!  -It actually was easier than I’d expected – it only took 15 mins.

SKYLARK with masts down travelline through Maidstone

We arrived at  the very pretty Aylesford bridge near Maidstone around 14.30. This has an HW air-draft of 2.5m so it was definitely a mast-down job. We all anchored and helped each other to take our masts down in the middle of the river, which, by now, was quite narrow and starting to look and feel more like an inland river (although still tidal). The river then passed through Maidstone town centre and we shortly reached Allington Lock, where the tidal Medway finishes and it becomes a freshwater river.

Allington Lock

 

The lock keeper was really helpful and after locking through, we found moorings alongside the bank directly outside the pub – perfect!

 

Tuesday – another really hot day-

We ventured further up the pretty and rural Medway through several locks but decided that we would turn around early afternoon and return to Allington for the evening. Continue reading

International Shrimpers Week (ISW) Scotland June 2022

SKYLARK, skippered by John with Geff as crew, joined the ISW rally based from Largs, in Scotland.

A description of this trip formed the basis of the presentation given by Geff at the September meeting.

Hence this post will for the moment only a short synopsis to hopefuly ensure your attendance.

SKYLARK was towed over 500 miles on July 19th to Largs in Scotland to join another 30+ Shrimpers for the rally,.some  had already been in the vicinity sailing for a few weeks before. We arrived late Sunday night where we stayed at a local B&B and arranged for SKYLARK to be hoisted into the Marina the following morning

SKYLARK was then taken out for a shakedown trip for the rest of the day to Little Cumbrae to check all the re-masting and rigging etc had been performed correctly. In the evening there was a group meal at NARDINI’s OF LARGS, Scotland’s most famous cafe, restaurant & ice cream parlour re-opened in December of 2008 following a multi million pound refurbishment that has seen the landmark Art Deco building restored to its past glory

SKYLARK flying SOCA Flag.

 

The next day, Tuesday,  was the first official day of the rally and consisted of sailing Sailing around Little and Great Cumbrae.

On Wednesday the fleet set out sailing across the Firth of Clyde, passing PS Waverley on the way. whilst continuing onto the marina at  Port Bannatyne on  the Island of Bute, just north of Rothesay, where a few of the Shrimpers choose to berth for the night. The group had an evening meal at the Victoria Hotel in Rothesay.

PS Waverley off Largs Firth of Clyde.

Lunch in Kyles of Bute

 

On Thursday the majority of the fleet then set sail anti-clockwise in light winds around the Isle of Bute, through the Kyles of Bute, with amazing scenery all the way to Tarbet on the Kintyre Peninsular.

SKYLARK set out early Friday morning, into a reasonably strong  headwind, which meant we motored all the way to south of the Isle of Bute, where we decided to seek the shelter by retracing our steps through the Kyles of Bute, Sailing north up the Kyles we were managing 6 to 7 knots on jib alone. We completed the 30 Nm trip in the early afternoon.

Mount Stuart, Isle of Bute

For the next few days sailing was impossible so we resorted to land based activities. On the first day taking the ferry as a foot passenger from Wemyss bay to Rothesay to take a bus to Mount Stuart House, A 19th-century mansion with extravagant interiors and expansive landscaped and wild gardens.

Engine Room of PS Waverley

The next day we decided to have a trip on the PS Waverly around the Isle of Bute. However the weather was too bad for the paddle steamer as well, we had decided to catch Waverly at Largs, but it was impossible for her to berth there so we had a mad rush to Greenock to catch it there, arriving with a few minutes to spare.
The paddle steamer struggled to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute, where some of the passengers disembarked to visit the town, we continued to the Kyles of Bute but had to turn back before we reached the end due the weather. The return trip then returned to Rothesay to pick up passengers and then onto to Greenock where she berthed with difficulty due to the offshore wind.

The weather was only beginning to improve so we joined a few of the others and decided to start the journey home the next day.

More details, with lots more photos, were presented at the September meeting.

Fish & Chip Night June 2022

The June meeting was held at the Royal Naval Association Welwyn Garden City.
The format was a Fish and Chip Supper, provisioned from Peartree Chippee.
 

The Fish and Chips were very good with plentiful supplies of chips  and Mushy Peas (e.g. Too Much),

The meal was followed by a group quiz organised by Stewart, which involved the ensemble trying to identify the vessel from the displayed lights.
General outcome, is everyone knows what Starboard and Port lights are, but in identifying the actual craft when it was large, towing, dredging, trawling or mine sweeping, the general consensus seemed to be the MORE lights = Stay further away !!!

A case of a lot of revising required before most of the audience try night sailing again!!!
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East Coast Sailing Weekend May 2022

Honfleur  East coast Sailng Weekend to Foxes Ipswich 28/5/2022

The crew of four Alex, Andrew, Richard and John all turned up at about 18.30 Friday at Walton Yacht Basin at about 18.30 Friday 27/5. We treated ourselves to fish and chips that night before departing the following morning at about 10..00 at high tide when the gate opens. Before leaving we erected the club flag, commodores and vice commodores flag in a hopeful attempt to promote the club. We had a very pleasant trip up Foundry Reach and the Walton Channel in the sunshine  with little wind.

These conditions continued all day although we did try to sail a bit up the Orwell but had to give this up as a bad job. We eventually docked at Foxes at about 16.00, had a beer before going over to the new bar restaurant where we met up with Stewart,Tanya,Paul and Denise, who had arrived by car. We all had a thoroughly enjoyable evening their and Stewart and Tanya came back to Honflleur for a Gin and Tonic with ice and lemon and finally 1 litre of Gin later we all retired.
“Post from Commodore”

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